Being our last full day in Japan, we decided to keep the sight-seeing local so that we can get back to the house at a descent hour to pre-pack. We started off the morning by taking the Kyoto city bus to Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion. The golden pavilion was originally a retirement home for Shogun Ashikaga Yashimitsu but then was converted into a buddhist temple after his death. It was a beautiful structure on tranquil grounds, although I personally think the gardens of Ginkaku-ji and Koke-en were more impressive. But the golden building is hard to top! We enjoyed our stroll through the gardens before stopping at the temple tea house grounds. We sat on red felt benches and enjoyed a cup of matcha green tea with a japanese sweet. Stamped on the sweet was an image of Kinkaku-ji and a piece of gold fleck. It was a peaceful and enjoyable experience.
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| Kinkaku-ji temple |
We jumped on our last chance for green tea ice cream before leaving the grounds and walked west to Ryoan-ji. Ryoan-ji was recommended to us by our magnificent Nara tour guide. I am glad she did because it was an amazing site. Originally part of the Fujiwara family estate, it was eventually converted into a Zen sect buddhist temple and became the burial grounds of seven Japanese emperors. The grounds were amazingly varied and very beautiful. There was a giant pond filled with lilies and lined with pink azaleas. Once again there were many turtles in the pond. A small island that one must cross a traditional Japanese style bridge to get to held a small protective Shinto shrine. Then you proceeded up to the monks quarters were the famous Ryoan-ji rock garden is located. The garden is so simplistic and scarce that it gives the illusion of being very large when in reality the garden is quite small. It is very peaceful and invites contemplation. The garden possess 15 rocks that are placed so that only 14 can been seen from any given vantage point except for one particular spot. It is said that through attaining enlightenment is the only way to see the 15th rock.
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| Ryoan-ji Rock Garden |
In the back is a famous ritual purification well. The kanjis (including the one that makes up the water receptacle) read "I only know plenty" meaning what one has is all one needs. No dipper is present to imply the water is not for the hands but for the soul only and that it is necessary to bend the knee in humility in order to receive it's blessing. The gift shop sold a most amazing smelling incense so I bought a package. Should have bought more! We meandered through the rest of the temple grounds before heading towards another temple that our Nara guide recommended for it's garden. Myoshin-ji is another Zen buddhist temple complex located in NW Kyoto. It is a huge temple complex with many sub-temples located within the grounds. It was such a pleasure walking through the grounds with all the beautiful large wooden buildings, plants, and decor.
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| Myoshin-ji complex |
We eventually found the sub-temple Taiso-in, where the garden is located. The first item we saw coming into the gardens, and Taiso-in's principle treasure, is the Hyonenzu, a designated National Treasure. The ink painting is the greatest masterpiece of Josetsu, considered to be the founder of ink painting in Japan between 1333 and 1573. We moved on to the dry garden (rock garden) which was quite impressive. We headed down to the wet gardens (gardens with water features) when we walked past the musical fountain amongst the azaleas. It is called Suikinkutsu and it creates a healing sound for those who hear and listen to it. The idea was first conceived in the Edo period (1603-1867). An earthenware jar with a small opening in it's bottom is buried upside down where water collects. Water trickles into the hole at the "bottom" of the jar (now the top) and forms droplets that fall to the collected water below, making a sound that echos deeply within the jar.
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| Hyonenzu |
We stopped at the pond to enjoy the wet gardens before meandering our way back home. We hit up the Shikyogoku covered shopping arcade for a couple of hours before retiring completely to the house. I tried to look for a cute hat but couldn't find one despite a couple hours of searching. I did get to try one of Shane's favorite foods though, Takoyaki, fried balls of batter stuffed with a piece of octopus. It was OK but the balls were too big to eat whole and were extremely hot, I burned my tongue and started tearing up trying to eat one. Not my favorite Japanese food but definitely worth a taste.
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| Eating Takoyaki |
We ended the day on a geisha death march through Gion district. The sun had gone down so I was hoping to spot a geisha walking the streets. Unfortunately we did not see one but we did see many traditional Japanese homes and super expensive restaurants. You could tell why people spot geisha here most often. We also happend upon Tatsumi Daimyojin shrine, a small but extremely scenic shinto shrine in the heart of Gion next to the scenic Shirakawa River where Maiko (geisha in training) still make their wishes. I wish I had more time because I would have loved to hang in that scenic spot for a bit. Unfortunately we had to get back to the house to start packing for home, flying out tomorrow.
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| Kyoto neighborhood |
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